San Sebastian - Gijon

Day Eight

Date:     6  April  2013

Place:    San Sebastian - Gijon

Weather:   Overcast, pouring rain giving way to a clear evening.  Cold.

Accommodation:  Hotel Ciudad Gijon

As we wandered the streets for a quick breakfast the day was very cold but not raining.  We stumbled across (our usual modus operandi) on a small café serving tapas, a few sweet things and coffee.  Perfecto!  The coffee was great, the thick hot chocolate even better and the tapas went down a treat.  Total bill for three tapas, two coffees and a hot chocolate was eight euros!  No wonder people say Australia is expensive!

We settled back for a two and half hour drive to Santillana del Mar in the Cantabria region which is described as the prettiest village in Spain.  The road bypassed Bilbao where we visited the Guggenheim.  As we drove along the rain was heavy and we were glad to be In a car.  Snow is still covering a lot of the taller mountains.

Arriving at the little village the weather was poor and we decided as it was already one thirty we would have lunch.  A very accommodating and friendly owner directed us to the back of the café and we enjoyed good coffee and a satisfying meal before we set off exploring.

David's umbrella turned inside out just as I took this photo!  It stopped raining a little after this and we enjoyed our visit.

We had timed lunch perfectly as it had obviously poured while we were inside and water gushed down the street to the lowest point making a large whirlpool into a drain.  The weather improved during our walk and we could put away our umbrellas.

Santa Juliana....wonderful isn't it!

Santillana del Mar is about twenty minutes from Santander and it is a medieval village (with all the mod cons).  The village is built around Santa Juliana a large Romanesque church with a big square.  Most of the houses were built in the fourteenth century and they feature brickwork with cantilevered rooms over the cobblestone streets. 

The little town is open to pedestrians only and with a reprieve in the wet weather we could see how beautiful the town is.  The flower boxes are yet to be sown as it is too cold I’m sure.  We spent a good  hour wandering around walking in and out of shops and taking lots of photos.  Desley bought a beanie which at this rate will come in good use on the walk which we start on Monday!

Our next stop was a short drive down the road to the Museo de Altimara.  The museum includes a life-like replica of a Neolithic cave which was discovered by Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola in 1879 after being alerted by a local shepherd.  The cave has been dated from 18,500 BC to 14,000 BC however several images have been dated back to 36,000 years ago.  As the roof had caved in after 14,000BC it has preserved the wonderful images of bisons, hands, horses and signs (etchings in the rocks). 

The purpose of the replica is to preserve the paintings which were being ruined by the introduction of people to the caves….they came in their hundreds of thousands each year….and the cave was officially closed until 2002 when the museum was opened.   Most of the signs were in Spanish and English so we had a great time wandering the displays after we had visited the cave.

Our next scheduled was Gijon for the evening.  Our trusty GPS negotiated us around a convoluted process to the hotel and we dropped off our bags and set out for the old part of town as it was already 7pm.  The evening was clear and cool and being a Saturday night the town was alive with people walking the streets.

 

I passed the first scallop shell indicating the Camino as we walked the streets……we are on the right course!  While driving we passed signs as well, some new ones and some on stone.

 

Gijon was a real surprise as the streets lead down to the beautiful beach – a long stretch of golden sand where children were playing and dogs running.  Lights framed the promenade and we walked past the thermal springs first used by the Romans.

On the recommendation of the hotel receptionist we dined at la Galana a lovely old hotel on a square near the beach.  It was more upmarket than we expected so we sat back for the ride and enjoyed a great red (me a rose) and fantastic food.  The service was impeccable and the waiters were a treat to watch.  If they were not attending a table they stood to attention at the front of the restaurant resplendent in their white shirts, black pants and aprons and watching over the tables.

We are becoming accustomed to the late dining in Spain – we started our meal around nine-thirty so maybe we should sleep in a little more?

Our first Paella....rich, creamy and salty.  Delicious!!

Tomorrow we are heading to Lugo to drop off the car and make our way to Sarria for the commencement of our walk.